Geographical Area of Production:
Initially, the product was originated from the Nuapatna village but with the increase in demand for the product, more and more artisans from the adjacent areas also adopted weaving of Khandua Saree and Fabrics as their main avocation.
Proof of Origin:
The origin of the product can be traced back to 12th Century AD, as the product is closely associated with the rituals of famous Lord Jagannath Temple of Puri in Orissa. It is believed that, during 12th century AD,
Jaydev, the famous poet desired to offer his magnomopous “Gitagovinda’ to Lord Jaganath. He found the silk fabric as a medium for offering the Gitagovinda to lord. He decided to script the lyrics of Gitagovind by using the tie and dye technique at this Centre (Kenduli Birth place of Jaydev) and offered it.
According to “Madala Panji” of lord Jagannath (the religious text of events to be organized for Lord
Jagannath temple), king Ramachandra of Puri ordered the weavers of Nuapatna to weave special dresses of Lord Jagannath, Lord Balabhadra and Devi Subhadra in various temple festivities since 1710 AD. Accordingly, the weavers have been weaving the dresses of the Lord throughout the year. In exchange, the weavers were compensated by the king by offering cultivable land. Hence, the art of weaving in this area is more than 4OO years old and is linked with the temple tradition of Puri.
As of today, few weavers of Nuapatna specifically weave cloth for the Lord and has been the practice since generations and even today two families of Madan Naha and Sudam Guin, weave Silk fabric for the Lord of Puri.
Method of Production :
The method of production of Khandua Silk Sarees undergoes following steps:
- Procurement of Raw Material
- Dissolution of Dye Stuffs
- Dye Bath
- Preparation of Material
- Dying Process
- Winding
- Warp Preparation
- Weft Preparation
- Manual Tying Process
- Design Setting
- Drafting and Denting
- Weaving
Uniqueness:
- Khandua fabrics are distinguished and characterized by its design with fine layout and harmony of color schemes, which gives out rainbow brilliancy.
- Weaving is done in a fly shuttle frame loom having auto take up motion and dobby attachments.
- Boarder portion is warp tie and dyed, where as Anchal (Pallu) is weft tie and dyed.
- The motifs give rise to bold and natural curve effect instead of geometrical shape.
- Only hand made wooden vertical frame for tying full length of weft yarn is used.
- Natural flower and animal motifs with color bleed effect are main rhythm of ‘Khandua”.
- Reflection of two-tone color for use of separate color warp and weft Yarn.
About Khandua Silk Saree:
- Pit loom Woven.
- Made of Pure Mulberry Silk.
- Small motifs across the body.
- Tie and Dye ‘Temple Borders’.
- Pallu has the motifs in horizontal rows.
- Fine and Intricate Zari Weaves.
- Double Shaded Body.
- Soft, Shiny, and Durable.
- Rich Luster and Grandeur.
Khandua Saree and Fabrics has been Conferred with the Geographical Indication (GI) Status by Government of India in 2010 with the GI Number 146.
Maintenance
Khandua Silk Sarees are extremely silky and also the zari work is very intricate, only dry cleaning and gentle ironing is recommended.
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